Winter Sailing in Kefalonia – The Good Lessons before Hauling Out

The chronicle you are about to read captures our last month in Kefalonia, between Argostoli and Lixouri before heading back to Preveza and hauling out the boat for a couple of weeks.

This month in Kefalonia felt like a long exhale before the pause that we are taking now. A stretch of days marked by rain, wind from every possible direction, shared meals and lessons we still needed to learn.

We moved slowly between Argostoli and Lixouri, watching winter tighten and loosen its grip on the island. Kefalonia is the largest Ionian island with deep bays and high mountains that shape the weather in unpredictable ways — something we felt very clearly this month.

If you are interested about the island’s here you can have a rich amount of 👉 information about Kefalonia

Argostoli in winter feels suspended in time. The marina was nearly empty — a ghost marina — yet somehow full of life thanks to the sailors who chose to stay here for winter and made it a safe and welcoming place to stay.

We celebrated Stefan’s birthday sailing the whole morning to Ormos Livathi and joining the wonderful sailors in Argostoli.

Together we shared dinners aboard different boats, improvised tables, warm meals eaten while the rain drummed on deck. Those evenings reminded us how powerful community can be, especially when conditions outside are far from comfortable.

We rode out Storm Harry, followed by days of strong winds shifting relentlessly — north, south, east, west — some of them deeply uncomfortable. Lines creaked, gusts howled through the rigging, and sleep came in fragments.
One of the biggest lessons came from something very practical: compensators.

When the weather allowed, we explored Kefalonia on foot. Winter walking reveals a different island — quiet paths, empty roads, villages half asleep.

We found hidden beaches, sheltered coves where the water was so clear it felt impossible not to go in. We took our first swim of the year, cold but exhilarating. And then, inevitably, something happened.

My phone slipped, splashed, and sank. Without hesitation, Stefan dove in and retrieved it from the bottom. A small rescue, a big smile, and one more story to add to the logbook.

Eventually, it was time to move again. But not too quickly! Our first attempt sailing out of Argostoli went bad. We turned back, the waves ware unbarable and I (Erica) got seasick after climbing on the mast (which you should never do under such conditions!) – I learned my lesson!

We sailed out of Argostoli, heading back toward Vliho (Lefkada) to collect packages and then continue north to Preveza, where we would haul out VAGO. This leg felt different — less about exploration, more about transition.

Here the link to our FIRST YouTube Video who takes you with us, from Kefalonia, to Ithaka and finally Lefkada.

Hauling out marks the end of a chapter. Time to prepare the boat, plan refits and start imagining the spring season, which we are more than ready for.

To be honest? We’re a bit fed up with the rain.

But we’re also grateful for all the experience we gained, the people we met, the memories we made and the privilege we had to discover Greece when tourists are gone and the country is quiet and lonely.

This month taught us:

• How important small upgrades can be
• How to weather discomfort — literally and emotionally
• How much we value shared meals and shared stories
• And how ready we are for what comes next
• How much winter cruising strips things down to the essentials

We’re now halfway through a long list of upgrades — from additional solar power and new electronics to hull work and engine service — all part of getting VAGO ready for the coming season: Spring, we’re waiting for you, badly!

In our next Salty Chronicle, we’ll share more about life in the marina, the refit process, and the upgrades that will shape our next miles at sea.

Read more about how we moved our lives to VAGO in this Blog Article. More about who we are as human beings here The Crew aboard Project-VAGO.